Home Repair Planner.
Plumbing

Garbage disposal not working? The 4 fixes before you call anyone

Humming, silent, or leaking — a flow chart to fix it yourself in 10 minutes before spending $250 on a plumber.

Cost: $0–$120Time: 10–40 minDifficulty: Easy

Nine times out of ten, a broken disposal is one of four things. Work through them in order; don't skip the first one.

Symptom: dead silent, no hum

Fix in this order:

  1. Press the red reset button on the bottom of the disposal (under the sink). It pops out when the motor overheats. Push it back in. Flip the switch — if it runs, you're done.
  2. Check the breaker. Disposals are usually on a 15 or 20A kitchen circuit. If the breaker is tripped, something caused it — don't just reset and forget.
  3. Test the wall switch. With power off at the breaker, pull the switch out and verify it's not dead. $4 replacement.
  4. Test the outlet under the sink (if the disposal is plug-in, not hard-wired). Unplug the disposal, plug in a lamp. Dead? That's an outlet or wiring problem, not a disposal problem.

If all four pass and the disposal is still silent, the motor is dead. Replace it.

Symptom: hums but doesn't spin

The motor is getting power; the grinding plate is jammed. This is a 5-minute fix.

  1. Turn off the switch. Keep it off until you're done. Seriously — this is the one where people lose fingers.
  2. Look in the disposal with a flashlight. Remove any obvious debris with pliers or tongs. Never your hand.
  3. Find the hex hole on the bottom center of the disposal. Insert a 1/4" Allen wrench (one came with the disposal — it's taped to the cord or body; otherwise buy one for $3).
  4. Rock the wrench back and forth until the grinding plate spins freely a full rotation each direction.
  5. Turn the switch back on, run cold water. It should spin up.

If it hums again, the jam is still there. Repeat. If the wrench spins freely but the disposal still only hums, the start capacitor or motor windings are gone. Replace the unit.

Symptom: leaking

Where it leaks tells you the fix:

  • Leak from the top (between sink flange and sink): The plumber's putty seal has failed. Remove the disposal, re-seat the flange with fresh putty, re-mount. 45 min.
  • Leak from the dishwasher inlet (side): Loose hose clamp. Tighten it.
  • Leak from the drain outlet (the discharge tube going to the trap): The gasket is shot. $2 replacement, 5 min.
  • Leak from the bottom of the unit: Internal seal is gone. The disposal itself is leaking. Replace it — these aren't rebuildable.

When to just replace it

If it's over 10 years old and dying, replace rather than repair. A mid-range InSinkErator Badger 5 is about $110 and installs in 90 minutes. Pro install is $250–$500 for the same unit — FixItReal's disposal replacement cost page shows what hiring out typically runs in your area.

The one tool that matters

The Allen wrench under the sink. If yours walked off, tape a new one to the disposal body right now — future you will need it at 11 pm.

Some links on this page are affiliate links. We may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.