Gas furnace replacement cost calculator (2026)
Your current furnace's BTU input and AFUE are on the data plate inside the front panel. Gas furnace replacement is licensed, permitted work — there's no DIY column, but the budget range tells you whether a quote is fair.
How this estimate is built
A replacement gas furnace in 2026 starts from an installed base of $3,000–$5,000 for a single-stage 80% AFUE unit and $4,000–$6,500 for a 95–97% condensing unit, where the base already includes the new PVC intake and exhaust run, a condensate drain or pump, labor for a one-day install, gas and electrical reconnection, the permit, startup, and haul-away. Two-stage models with a multi-speed blower add $600–$1,200; fully modulating furnaces with variable-speed ECM blowers add $1,500–$3,000. Size scales the equipment and labor modestly: a 40–60k BTU unit is about 10% below the typical 60–80k band, and 100–120k units about 20% above.
The add-ons are where quotes diverge. An 80% furnace that can't reuse its existing metal vent needs a new one ($400–$1,200). When a high-efficiency furnace stops using the chimney, the water heater that still vents there is "orphaned" and usually needs a stainless chimney liner ($800–$2,000) — a common surprise. A different cabinet size means a new plenum and transitions ($300–$800), and adding a return to fix airflow is $500–$1,500 more. The planner's typical band for a straightforward replacement is $3,500–$7,500; this calculator shows why a real quote can land outside it.
80% or 95%+?
AFUE is the share of the gas that becomes heat in the house. An 80% furnace sends a fifth of your gas bill up a metal flue; a 96% unit recovers most of that but needs PVC venting out a side wall and somewhere to drain the acidic condensate. In a cold climate with a real heating season, the condensing unit usually pays back its premium in 5–10 years; in a mild climate, the simpler 80% install is often the better value, especially where the existing vent and water heater arrangement can stay. Ask each bidder for the estimated annual operating cost of both at your actual gas rate — a good contractor can produce it in a minute.
Single-stage, two-stage, or modulating?
Single-stage furnaces are either off or at full fire; they're reliable and cheapest. Two-stage units run at roughly 65% most of the time and step up only on the coldest days, which means longer, quieter cycles and more even temperatures. Modulating furnaces adjust in small increments and pair with variable-speed blowers for the best comfort and the highest price. Staging improves comfort more than it improves efficiency — if the budget is tight, spend on the AFUE tier and a correct Manual J sizing before you spend on modulation.
Repair or replace?
Under 12 years old with a failed igniter, flame sensor, inducer, or blower motor — repair. Past 15 years, a cracked heat exchanger (not repairable; the furnace is done), a failed control board plus another major part, or repair quotes above about $800 point to replacement. The furnace troubleshooting guide covers what you can check yourself before you call anyone.
Getting quotes
Get three, ideally in September or spring rather than the first cold week. Each quote should name the exact model, AFUE, BTU input, and staging; state whether a Manual J load calculation was done (oversized furnaces short-cycle and wear out early); itemize venting, condensate handling, plenum work, thermostat, and permit; and separate the labor warranty from the manufacturer's parts and heat-exchanger warranty. Ask what commissioning they do — combustion analysis and temperature-rise measurement should be standard. Line the bids up in the quote comparison worksheet.
Figures are typical 2026 U.S. planning ranges compiled from published contractor cost guides and retailer pricing, rounded into bands. They are not quotes. Our multi-project planner adds a 10% contingency and a regional cost band by default; use it when this job is one of several, and see how the estimates are built.
What pushes the price up
- High-efficiency condensing units (95%+ AFUE) that need new PVC intake/exhaust venting and a condensate drain or pump
- Two-stage or modulating furnaces with variable-speed blowers
- Ductwork modifications, added returns, or a new plenum to fit a different cabinet size
- Chimney liner or orphaned water heater venting when a high-efficiency furnace stops using the chimney
- Electrical or gas line changes; a new thermostat with staging support
- Attic or crawlspace installations with poor access
What keeps it down
- Like-for-like 80% AFUE replacement using the existing metal vent (where code allows and no water heater is left orphaned)
- Same cabinet size and orientation, so the plenum and ducts connect without modification
- Off-season scheduling
- Three bids on the same AFUE and staging — spreads of 30–40% are common
Materials vs. labor
The furnace is typically 40–60% of an installed quote; labor (often a full day for one or two techs), venting, condensate handling, gas and electrical connections, permit, commissioning, and haul-away make up the rest. Condensing units shift more of the cost into venting and condensate work.
Planning checklist
Materials typically needed
- Supplied and specified by the contractor — ask for model numbers in the quote
Before you start
- Ask for AFUE and whether a two-stage or modulating unit is justified for your climate
- Have the ductwork and return air evaluated — many comfort complaints are duct problems
Typical sequence
- Contractor sizes the unit (Manual J) and verifies venting path
- Remove old furnace; set new; connect gas, vent/intake, condensate, electrical
- Commission: combustion analysis, temperature rise, static pressure
- Inspection
When to hand it to a pro: Gas, venting, and combustion safety. Licensed HVAC contractor and permit required.
Do it yourself or hire it out?
Not a DIY project: gas connection, combustion venting, and commissioning (combustion analysis, temperature rise, static pressure) are what keep carbon monoxide out of the house and the heat exchanger from cracking early.
Homeowner work that's worthwhile: filters, cleaning the flame sensor, clearing the condensate trap — see the furnace troubleshooting guide. Those keep the existing furnace running until replacement is on your terms.
Safety and permits
- Carbon monoxide: a wrong vent, a cracked heat exchanger, or an orphaned water heater venting into an oversized chimney are the classic failure modes. Keep a CO alarm on every level.
- Gas: if you smell gas, leave the house and call the utility before anyone else.
- Rollout switch trips mean flame left the burner box — never reset repeatedly.
Permit: A mechanical permit with inspection is required in nearly all jurisdictions. The inspection checks venting, clearances, gas connections, and the condensate disposal — it is worth having.
Common questions
80% or 95% AFUE?
In cold climates with high gas costs, 95%+ usually pays back; in mild climates, an 80% unit with a simpler vent is often the better value. Ask bidders for the annual operating-cost estimate for both at your gas rate.
Should I replace the AC at the same time?
If the AC is over 12 years old or the indoor coil has to come out anyway, replacing both as a matched system is usually cheaper than two separate jobs and avoids compatibility issues.
Do tax credits apply?
The federal 25C credit ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025. Utility rebates for high-efficiency furnaces still exist in some areas — verify with the utility directly.
How long does a furnace last?
15–20 years is typical for a maintained gas furnace. Past 15, put any repair over $800 toward replacement instead.
References
Figures reviewed November 2026. Estimates are planning figures, not quotes; verify locally and use licensed professionals for electrical, gas, roofing, and permit-required work.